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Friday, April 26, 2013

Rock a Suit That Rocks

custom suits

Mark Ronson explains why he quit dressing like a Beastie Boy and started suiting up
"I think style is influenced by the music you like at any given time. At 13 to 15, I was happy listening to the Happy Mondays and going to raves, so I was wearing baggy striped pants and platform rave shoes. Then, from 18 to 26, it was pretty much Beastie Boys 101: shell-toe Adidas. But I started wearing suits every day after I did a GQ shoot inspired by French New Wave films. When Madeline [Weeks, GQ's fashion director] told me New Wave would be the inspiration, I watched alain Delon in Le Samouraï and Jean-Paul Belmondo in Breathless. After the shoot, I was just like 'Shit, I want to dress like this every day!' I think I ended up somewhere between French New Wave, the Beatles in '64, and the jazz musicians on the back of all those great Blue Note covers.
"In 2008, I was producing a record by the Kaiser Chiefs and wearing suits every day. But I was living out of a hotel and eventually ran out of clean shirts, so I had to wear a polo and a pair of black jeans. Nobody would pay attention to me that day. Finally I was like, "Oi! What the fuck? Listen to me!' And Ricky from the band was like, 'Why? You look like a teenager.' People look at you differently when you grow up and wear clothes that fit you better."

Thursday, April 25, 2013

Century Suited Man Looks Like

1. What the Twenty-first- Century Suited Man Looks Like
Check out Christoph Waltz here and you'll see more than just a sharp-dressed man—you'll see a completely contemporary man. What's the secret? The trimness of the suit? Sure. The elegance of the details? Totally. But look a little closer and you'll notice what's not here: no aggressive plaids, no I'm-the-man pinstripes, no four-button jacket. Instead, the message is smart, confident, thoroughly put together. He makes a statement by not making one—or at least looking as if he's not trying so hard to make one. Like the best in modern design, his suit is simple and streamlined, perfectly crafted. That's the look you want.

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Wednesday, April 24, 2013

6 Menswear Essentials

custom suits

Have you ever had a customer drop by unannounced at the office, and you wished you’d dressed a little more “business” and a little less “casual”?  Or have you spilled coffee on your shirt, then spent the entire day in meetings wondering how many people are questioning your drinking abilities?  Fear not!  You’re not the first person to experience these mini-crises, and they’re certain to show themselves again.  You can be sufficiently prepared for the next issue though, by stocking your desk with these 6 menswear essentials specifically tailored to address any potential workplace scenario.
(Courtesy of Gabriel Saldana)
Extra Tie
Keep a basic, extra tie at your desk.  You’ll never be sure what you’ll be wearing when that unexpected customer visit occurs, so keep a black or navy silk tie at your desk.  You’ll ensure you’re appropriately dressed for any possible meeting and you won’t have to worry about whether your tie properly matches your shirt.
Sewing Kit
Buttons seem to disappear from shirts at the most inconvenient times.  It’s therefore in your best interest to keep a small sewing kit at your desk to help guard against these annoyances.  The kit doesn’t need to be elaborate – a simple needle, threads and buttons of various colors, and small nail scissors will tackle everything from missing buttons to hanging threads.  Fix the problem, and you’ll be back to looking sharp in no time!
Small Brush
You might think this is for your teeth, but this will actually help keep you dress shoes looking clean and tidy.  Since it’s impractical to bring an entire shoe-shining kit to work, opt instead for this temporary stand-in.  The brush can clean any scuff marks your shoes might acquire during the day, and buy you time until you get them home and can properly polish and shine them.
Stain Remover Pen
Remember those coffee stains you’ve accidentally gotten on your shirts?  A handy stain remover pen can be a stop-gap until you can give your shirt proper cleaning attention.  This isn’t a substitute for actually cleaning your clothes, though; you still need to ensure you’re wearing clean clothes everyday at the office.  But hopefully that goes without saying.
Lint Roller
This is especially handy if you have a cat or dog.  If they shed a lot, it inevitably manages to find its way onto your suit or dress pants.  You don’t want coworkers thinking you practice veterinary medicine on the side, so keep your outfits looking clean with this handy little tool.
Sure, the umbrella keeps your hair dry, but it can also help protect your shoes from the rain.  And if you’re wearing polished Allen Edmonds or another leather shoe, you definitely don’t want them getting wet.  So keep an umbrella handy in your desk or briefcase (or messenger bag or car) and make sure those shoes are always looking spotless!

Monday, April 22, 2013

The Versions of Type of Men's Suits

There are lots of methods of collocation, equally different versions of the type there are some difficulties on resolution version of the type, the following is to tell you how to match men suits and resolution its version of the type.
Formal occasions should first choose a dark suit like deep blue, dark gray, or black solid color, then light gray, brown like, like grid network is still before the launch of a dark blue plaid men's suits are more suitable for formal occasions wearing light men age generally like to wear more casual so you can choose the light color of the fabric, does not require too deep.
Suits and ties: shoes generally black and brown As for the style can be selected according to their preferences and occasions; socks to wear black or gray wear dress socks, avoid wearing white.
Tie :: For the length and style of the tie actually pay attention to the different materials and colors, but the pattern is the most important. More formal occasions and site selection with elegant fabrics, good texture, tie pattern can choose the diagonal stripes or pinstripes, more layered, blue, dark red, purple, 3 colors are generally necessary the color of the Second should also pay attention to the mix of other accessories.
Shirt: blue, white and light blue all men are generally bound to be several colors. Select the Plaid shirt give people more relaxed feeling, strong sense of professionalism; dark colors of the shirt is more suitable to wear to go out or travel time. The so-called version of type, is the appearance of the contour of the suit.
Strictly speaking, the suit has four basic version of the type:
European version of the type style suit:
Select men's suits for the European version of the suit must be considerations whether to buy, because some people on the shoulder is not wide enough to wear very nice. Waist and shoulder are generally the characteristics of the European version of the suit.
U.S. style suit:
The characteristics of this type of tailored suit is the outline into type O is relatively loose, suitable for everyday wear. Therefore, the U.S. version of the type of suit is generally more casual, more casual.
The Japanese version of the suit:
The kind of men's suits by the young men's favorite basic outline showsthe H-type. More in line with the human body in Asia, a lot of models do not slit

Friday, April 19, 2013

Style Series Part 3B Knowing the STRUCTURAL Details

Last week we introduced you to Material Details like accessories for your functional boutonniere (the lapel flower hole).  This week, we’re moving on to Structural Details – details built right into your suit.  You can use these details to permanently enhance and personalize your look.
We love custom suits because they allow us to dictate the structural details we want to showcase.  These details can include monogramming, an inner lining color that has personal significance (like your NCAA team colors!), working cuffs, accent stitching or adding subtle texture and depth to your lapels with pick stitching.  These types of details speak not only to the craftsmanship of your garment but also to the sophisticated taste of its owner.
We break down this charcoal blazer for you below.
custom suits
Inner Lining
The inner lining is an understated and often overlooked aspect of the jacket. But when carefully selected, it can be a way for you to make a statement without saying a word. While contiguous to your outfit, it’s not really a “part” of your outfit.  This means that you don’t need to worry about that inner lining color clashing with the color, pattern, or look of your shirt, trousers, etc.  Our co-founder Derek is sporting orange and blue above in support of our hometown Knicks! Whatever your choice, your inner lining will be noticed by the lucky onlookers who may catch a glimpse of your suit’s inner personality.
Accent Stitching
Another small detail that can make a big difference in your suit is accent stitching. Instead of the usual neutral to dark threading found along the boutonniere and the sleeve cuffs, you can use accent stitching as a way to permanently add colorful character to your suit. Go with a dark or neutral color for quiet elegance or a brighter color for sophisticated dandy.
custom suits
We love accent stitching because it’s a visible moniker that makes this work of sartorial art yours. The monogram might be the literal signing of your name much like the way an artist signs the back of a painting, but the accent stitching is a unique and visible detail that reflects your own essence. It’s a small dash of color at the corner of an orchestrated outfit that graciously bows after a masterpiece of a performance.
Sleeve Buttons
Finally, no treatise on structural details is complete without addressing the sleeve buttons.  Any quality custom suit should have sleeve buttons that overlap ever so slightly, aptly described as “kissing”.  These orbicular romantics should also be functional, commonly referred to as “Surgeon’s Cuffs”, where the buttons actually work.
custom suits
The working buttons indicate that the suit was most likely custom made for you or that it was made by a luxury brand because such quality construction is both more time consuming and labor intensive relative to non-working, “fake” buttonholes.  Leaving your last sleeve buttonhole undone was a way for gentlemen to show others that they were part of a certain sartorial brotherhood. You can also roll your cuffs up in ways that make your outfit more casual.  As the weather gets warmer, you can wear your custom suit jacket or blazer over a fresh t-shirt or henley, roll up the suit sleeves, add some wrist wear, pair with some denim or chinos and finish it off with a pair of fresh kicks.  Done and done.

Tuesday, April 16, 2013

Your Best Accessory: Confidence

The most important rule in all of style is to carry and dress yourself in confidence. In all things you do and in any path you choose to take, do so confidently. Have the confidence to make your own way, to achieve your goals and to look your very best every day. We all know that there is an undeniable attractiveness to someone who walks, talks and dresses with the utmost self-assurance. And on the flip side, there is nothing more noticeable than a guy who looks like he’s trying too hard while looking incredibly uncertain about himself.

The confident man wears his clothes with an ease that makes his striking pieces look like an everyday staple of his wardrobe. He owns his look, no matter what he decides to wear because it’s an authentic expression of his personality and character. On the other hand, the guy who is insecure about his appearance will be noticeably self-conscious of his clothing – touching it, fixing it up, looking himself up and down every reflective surface on the street. He’s not wearing his clothes, his clothes are wearing him.
So how can you achieve that confident style that some seem to just be born with? Well, that’s the thing – you don’t have to be born with confidence to have it. In this article, we’ll explore confidence in the context of style by exploring what we believe to be its three essentials characteristics.
1. Authenticity 
“Style is an expression of individualism mixed with charisma. Fashion is something that comes after style.” – John Fairchild  (Founder of W Magazine) 
Confidence in your style starts with an authentic expression of yourself. Have you ever tried to pull off a look you saw somewhere only to feel extremely self-conscious about it all day, constantly bothered by that uneasiness of looking silly?  If your image is inconsistent with who you are, this insecurity is a common symptom.
There are two types of insecurities: 1) you’re stepping out of your comfort zone to dress better and you’re getting used to your new self; 2) you’re wearing something that isn’t consistent with who you are as a person. The former is okay but the latter is not. At face value, this may sound complicated, but allow us to explain.
Example #1: You’re a gentleman who likes and wears suits on a regular basis but has decided to drop the “poppa-hand-me-down” sack suit in favor of a form-fitting, slimmer suit. You know this looks better, but you’re adjusting to an improved look. This is normal as there’s always a bit of “uncertainty” here. Ignore the uncertainty and be confident in your upgrade.
Example #2: You’re a gentleman who likes and wears suits on a regular basis but one day, liking the way a street-style blogger looked in a snap back hat, graphic t-shirt, ripped up jeans and high-top chucks, you decide to do the same. Now, you can’t stop fixing yourself, averting glances and wondering what people think of you.
Don’t get us wrong. There’s nothing wrong with experimenting with a new look, but it makes sense to transition and explore rather than jump in head first. So a good place to start is to get some clarity about yourself and what you intend to communicate with your image. If you’re a preppy guy who likes some street style, be a preppy guy with splashes of street style rather than a preppy guy uncomfortably trapped in street style.

2.  Confidently Take Risks 

Photography by Tommy Ton 
A stylishly confident guy isn’t afraid to try new things. So if you choose to express yourself with a preppy look, that’s fine, but why not experiment a bit? Being confident means being comfortable, but don’t be comfortable to a point of stagnation, be comfortable to the point of taking some risks. So take some chances, even if they are small. At the end of the day, your confidence should always trump your fears.

Here’s a quick and simple exercise to help build some stylish confidence: Write the following down on a piece of paper, “I can’t wear that, it’s just not me”. Scribble, cross, X or black-line the sh*t out of that same sentence. Now take that piece of paper, crumple it up or torch it (just don’t set your office or apartment on fire).
Stylishly confident men never let such language thwart their sartorial progress. Just because the entirety of a certain look or aesthetic might not be “you” doesn’t mean you can’t incorporate specific elements of that certain aesthetic to make it yours. You might be a guy who prefers a bacon cheeseburger over a grilled chicken salad, but that doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy that bacon cheeseburger with some lettuce and tomatoes and that also doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy a grilled chicken sandwich with some bacon and cheese. You’re a preppy guy who doesn’t like the whole rock-star-leather-jacket-skinny-jeans look? No problem, but why not try wearing a leather jacket with a button down, vest, tie and some slim denim? Be confident enough to take some risks and you’ll see how far you can go.

3. Not Giving a F*** (NGAF)
This is final and most important rule of being truly confident in style. But it’s the final rule for a reason. If it were the first rule, some guys would have stopped reading by now, canceled their upcoming haircut appointments, thrown out their razors and dug up those beer-stained jeans and fraternity t-shirts. So, NGAF needs to be taken in the proper context. By being confident in your style, NGAF means that your style is not dependent on the approval of others. It also means that you know you look good because you’ve taken the time to figure out how to authentically express your style, take some risks and hone your look to where it is now. More importantly, you understand that at the end of the day, style is a PERSONAL statement, one that should be yours and only yours – this is never at the mercy of trends, passing fads and the opinion of others. NGAF means that you dress for yourself because you know your style is an the extension of yourself and you’re fully confident in showing the world who you are.

There is a magnetic quality to the man who is confident about who he is and how he looks. He defines his clothes rather than let his clothes define him. He creates unique and original outfits that seem like an organic outflow of his personality. This may be you. If it’s not, it can be you. It’s the combination of authentic expression, risk-taking and irreverence that culminates into the stuff of icons—the Karl Lagerfelds, Lapo Elkanns, Steve McQueens of the world. Now it’s your turn. Go forth in confidence!

Monday, April 15, 2013

Suit Up like Ryan Gosling

Let’s face it. He’s come a long way since The Notebook. Ladies adore him and the reasons are plenty. If Ryan Gosling isn’t on a movie set roughing up gangsters or smooth talking some gorgeous chick at a bar, he’s probably roaming the streets helping perfect strangers, playing superhero and all the while being captured on camera by paparazzi and fashion photographers alike. And no matter how much your female co-worker/girlfriend/wife/mom/sister loves him, you can’t really hate on the guy because his latest string of movies have been pretty damned solid (most recent one notwithstanding). And as much as you may not want to admit it, the guy looks good on and off camera – particularly in a suit.
We’ve been itching to do a style profile on Gosling for quite some time now, and with the recent debut of Gangster Squad, we thought it would be the perfect opportunity to explore and break down not just one, but three of Gosling’s looks in three different movies.
Without further ado, the suited Mr. Gosling:

Look #1: The Gangster (Gangster Squad)

So let’s start with Gosling’s latest movie, Gangster Squad. Set in the 1940s, the era was dominated by zoot suits with famously large lapels, large shoulders and large pants worn by gangsters with equally large personalities. While the film itself won’t be an Oscar contender, we know Mr. Gosling would not disappoint on the sartorial front. As is par for the course, his character is not lacking in confidence, making it possible to pull off those extra wide peak lapels without losing a step. Complete with a fedora and a tastefully patterned maroon tie, Gosling shows us how to wear a gray chalk stripe suit (thicker pinstripes) with that 1940′s gangster swagger. Add a Manhattan (the cocktail) and you got a little east coast meets-west coast combo that Biggie, Tupac and Lucky Luciano all would have agreed on.

Sunday, April 14, 2013

The Online Retail World

As I’ve previously mentioned, this menswear/fashion movement is in its early stage of modern existence. It’s growing and moving forward at a rapid rate. Didn’t you hear that one of the biggest names in men’s fashion, Nick Wooster, is now working with JC Penney? Odins new collection with Target? GQ’s Best New Designers collaborating with GAP? ESPN announcers at the NBA draft using the term “spread collar?” Dad’s from across the States will soon be wearing chambray button downs, slim-fitted camo shorts and loafers (and no socks!) Shocking? Well, not really; it was bound to happen. Men are starting to dress better. It’s a fact; now it’s time to get used to it.
I’ll be the first to admit, although small, the “menswear community” is becoming over-saturated. For those of you unfamiliar with it, let me put this on a level that you can understand. Start out by thinking of your favorite reality television show. Next, think about how many spin-offs have been created from that show. There’s a lot of  antique collecting teen mom’s out there fishing with their bare hands while somehow managing to be a real (not fake) housewives. Does that make sense? Great, because the same thing is happening on our end. Everyone is telling you how to wear that new navy blazer you just bought. Oh, and don’t even think about letting your pants sit on your loafers. It’s summer, roll those up and show some ankle (which subsequently is my other article this week)! Alright, alright, you get it. But in all honesty, why are we telling people how to dress? Shouldn’t we be inspiring people rather than telling? Yes, when you take a woman on a date, you should wear a jacket. I don’t care if you’ve been dating for two weeks or two years; put on a jacket and loose the gym shoes! That’s pretty much the only “real” advice I want to give you on “what to wear.” I’m afraid you’ll have to do the rest on your own, gents.
Where to start? Educate yourself. Trust me, clothes can be expensive.  You could drop $800 on a t-shirt if you really wanted too (I’ll stick with my James Perse tees—seriously, they’re the best). You will not be any more fashionable if you buy an expensive jacket or pants. I live by the saying, “It’s not what you wear, but how you wear it.” Build a collection that suits you (literally and metaphorically). Don’t buy to buy and most certainly don’t buy a matching outfit out of your favorite menswear magazine. Being a manikin is no fun and will get  you no farther in life. Figure out what works for you and go with it. Style is eternal (someone famous said that, I think) and should be ever-changing. One thing I love about my visits to NYC, Chicago, or LA is the style I see from the people on the streets. The body and it’s clothes are a pallet for creativity and individuality. You get lost in a sea of people very quickly in such large cities, like NYC. Therefore, they desire to fit outside the norm. People in most other cities do not want to stand out and/or be different, which is unfortunate. There’s a fear of being “unique” that scares people. It’s much easier to be inside  the heard instead of on your own.
Fear not, my friends! Now men from all over the world have their opportunity to shop high quality goods online. Yes, even if you live in a tiny town of 200 in a remote part of the country. Odds are, you have an internet connection or the means to access it. Now, you have the opportunity to wear, see, and experience designers that once were only available if you went to a major city.
There’s a handful of menswear online retailers that have become instrumental in this menswear  movement. They are doing something that has not been done before: bringing fashion/style to the masses on a global scale. Take a smaller company, like Save Khaki. They’ve been my favorite khaki designers since their beginning. The only time I could ever buy from them is when I visited their store in SoHo. Now, since the online retailing explosion, they’re just a click away.

Thursday, April 11, 2013

VM Clothiers on the Evolution of Custom Tailoring and Building an Affordable Wardrobe in the District

Around the corner from the White House, VM Clothier’s headquarters offers an approachable environment to begin or continue an adventure in custom tailoring. Modern Fellows sat down with founder Vishal Mirpuri for a conversation that touched upon the evolution of custom tailoring, growing a business organically, and shattering the stereotype of DC style.

We’ll have more on VM Clothiers, which is on deck for a review as part of Modern Fellows’ Custom Project. For now, below is a lightly-edited transcript of our conversation with Vishal, along with a peek inside his Washington shop.
What led you to start a custom clothing business?

I came at it through my family and built my own brand from there. When I first graduated college I was buying clothes off the rack. I have extended family in the [custom tailoring] business, who have their own separate line, so it didn’t really make sense to do that. Initially, I learned more about my family’s business, and then looked into doing something on my own. In 2007, I decided to give it a shot. I started the business part time, and then went full time last year.
How has VM Clothiers’ business developed over the past 5 years?

Business development has been a little bit different for me. A lot of businesses start up and go into it full force. You have someone who quits their job and works the business full time. That’s a different experience and transition into the business, where you need immediate results, than I had. I had the luxury of working already and of starting VM Clothiers on my off hours and on weekends. That gave me the opportunity to let the business grow organically versus having to bring in clients in that first month. Starting slowly helped me get to a point where I was comfortable then taking the business full time. Overall, the reception has been good.
Can you observe any trends in DC style through your customers?

Business has been growing constantly year over year. Part of that is that you’re starting from zero so you have to grow, but another part of it is that DC has transitioned over the past couple of years. There is definitely a lot of focus right now on menswear. People are a little bit more concerned about how they dress over here. There are a number of similar businesses coming into the area and folks who have shops in other parts of the country are opening stores here. The landscape is changing, and the stereotype of DC is changing as well. So I think it’s good. We’re at a point that if we put out a good product here, you start getting referrals and new business.
How has the custom tailoring business developed in recent years?

Fifteen or twenty years ago, you only had the traveling tailors coming out of Asia, and their target was the 40-plus year old professional gentleman – doctors, lawyers, executives. My brother-in-law’s company is on the traveling circuit. They have a very big company, based in Hong Kong, that goes to the United States and Canada. There was this artificial barrier where people thought custom was prohibitively expensive. It wasn’t really, but there was this perception.

Even a decade ago, most young professionals weren’t as focused on what they were wearing. Back when I graduated from college, my friends and I were buying our shirts from Macy’s or Express. I had friends going to [now defunct discount menswear store] K&G. Nobody paid attention. You didn’t want to spend a crazy amount because you’re not making that much, but another part is that you really weren’t focused on fit.

Now I’m getting guys who are coming out of college or who are still in school and they’re choosing to go the custom route. That tells me that people are starting to focus more on how they dress and how they look. Younger guys care about the end product, not just filling up their wardrobe because they have to.

And with the internet, more information is out there. People are learning that custom shirts don’t have to be 300 bucks a pop. You also have a lot more companies based in the United States, some with brick-and-mortar locations. This new breed of custom tailor has put a different spin on a traditional business. People are realizing that it’s not really that big of a difference between going to Brooks Brothers and getting something custom-made. In fact, depending on where you shop, you might even save money.
How would you describe the clothes VM Clothiers offers?

When I started the business, my goal was to make custom affordable, not to target the C-suite folks. I wanted my friends and colleagues to be able to buy their clothing from me. Initially, we worked with a lot of Super 120′s and 130′s fabrics. But as the business and our clients evolved, we developed strong relationships with fabric mills and suppliers and now carry a wide range of fabrics. Our wools range from Super 100′s to Super 180′s and include all of the premium mills such as Scabal, Holland & Sherry, Dormeuil, and Zegna. Our suits are full bespoke – hand-cut and hand-sewn, and include a floating canvas, surgeon cuffs, and pick stitching. We have over 2,000 shirt fabrics, consisting primarily of 2-ply cottons in the 100-160 thread count range. We are at a point now where we can serve the needs of pretty much anyone.

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Wednesday, April 10, 2013

The Ultimate Men’s Clothing Fit Guide

men suits

Fit is an issue I discuss time and again with regards to men’s clothing. Getting clothes with the perfect fit is a tough call. One of the most common mistakes men make is buying garments without considering size implications on their frame.
To combat this problem I’m going to take you through the intricacies of finding clothing with the perfect dimensions, be it necklaces or neckties, socks or sleeves, coats or caps, and any combination therein.

Measure your body properly
Before considering clothing we need to assess our bodies. No, I don’t suggest you stand in front of a mirror and point out flaws. Instead, a far more productive approach is to take exacting measurements of every square inch of your body.
When you know exactly what you’re dealing with, you can begin to think about shopping for a better fit.
Neck / Collar
Standing with your head straight up, measure around the thickest part of the neck. Slacken the tape enough to allow two fingers into the loop for an accurate measurement for dress shirts.
You need to measure in a straight line over the chest at the widest and fullest point with the tape securely wrapped under the armpits and with your arms relaxed by your side – err on the side of generous where possible.
Measure around the spot where your trousers normally hang. Do not pull tight for the sake of vanity as you’ll feel even more ridiculous when your new pants don’t fit!
If you end up with an awkward figure, always round up rather than down. For instance, if you’re 39 and three quarter inches it’s best to assume you’re a 40-inch waist.
Hips or Seat
Stand upright in your natural stance and measure around the widest and fullest part of your hips. If you’re husky don’t pull the tape too tight – you don’t want to tear at the seams.
Ah, the dreaded inseam. Get a friend you trust to measure from your crotch to the ankle. If the idea of someone placing his or her hands near your privates is all too much you can alternatively take the measurement from a pair of good fitting trousers from the crotch’s seam to the bottom of the leg.
The same as the inseam only taken from the top of the waistband to the bottom of where the trouser leg should end. This is said to be more reliable figure than the inseam, although few manufacturers provide fit information regarding the outseam.
You should have your feet measured using a professional device such as a ‘Brannock’ or ‘Ritz Stick’. These are found at your local shoe store; just ask an assistant if he or she can measure your feet, or whether you can borrow their device briefly whilst you measure yourself.

Should always be one size up from your waist size. Therefore, if you’re a 35 inch waist, you should be buying 36 inch belts.
Stand up straight against a wall. Use a pencil to mark out your height and measure the result. Those who are 5”5 – 5”8 are considered by clothing manufacturers to be short, 5”9 – 5”11 are regular whilst anything upto 6”2 is considered long.
Body Shapes
The next thing you need to understand is your body shape. Unlike size, your shape tends to fall into broader categories. Whilst slightly more subjective, it’s important to know what you’ll have to do in order to combat shape related issues.
athletic fit
If you’re a muscular man with the classic inverted ‘V’ (created from wide shoulders, a robust chest but a thin waist) you’ll find items like t-shirts will billow around the lower stomach area.
Prevent this by selecting ‘fitted’ garments that taper at the waist and appear less ‘boxy’. Don’t over-layer and avoid puffy clothing
slender fit
If you look more ‘malnourished supermodel’ than ‘superman’, you’ll find clothes slide off your frame and appear limp. Hunt out slim fits to avoid unnecessary bulk and avoid slatternly, feminine garments that deaden your masculine side.
Don’t go crazy with the vertical lines and look for clothes that offer visual breaks like zippers, pockets and noticeable seams. Remember that ‘skinny’ garments, like ties and jeans, will give off an anorexic vibe.
Stocky Fit
If you’re squat guy with the traditional ‘ruby player’ bulk, combat the feeling of shapeless shirts by avoiding too much volume. Although you don’t have the plump heft of bigger men, you should take a page out of their fashion book by throwing away those chunky knits.
Chris Hoy Pear Shape
If you’re unfortunate enough to be born with ‘thunder thighs’ and/or ‘child-bearing hips’, you’ll find buying trousers to be a nightmare. Boot cut jeans and slouchier, ‘relaxed’ fits help with casual clothes, but when it comes to workwear and business suits you’ll find lycra-infused cottons and other ‘stretch’ weaves will give you a better fit around the seat area.
Big Guys
bigger men
If you have a couple of pounds you could do with losing, you’ll need to avoid anything baggy that’ll only exacerbate the appearance of flab by adding imaginary pounds with wafting fabric. Throw out shapeless garments and avoid stripes, busy patterns and chunky knits.
How should garments fit?
Now we know our bodies more intimately than we’d probably like to, it’s time to consider how most clothing should look and feel on our body for the optimum fit. Here are some of the most common garments and problems men encounter day to day, and how to deal with them:
Your overcoat should be able to accommodate a suit underneath without issue. The simple rule of thumb is that any horizontal wrinkles mean the coat is too small and any vertical wrinkles mean the coat is too large.
Be it suit jackets or casual coats, the idea behind most jackets is simple – a form fitting upper layer. It’s best to try on a jacket whilst wearing several layers as you would normally; the perfect size may become too small when switching from a white tee and jeans to dress pants and a long shirt.
The shoulders are everything with a jacket; the edge of your shoulder should hit square with the jacket. Excess billow around the waistline will add those extra pounds to your frame, so ensure you’re not going a size too big.
Finally, ensure the cuff hits the wrist correctly on your suit jackets and blazers; when wearing a dress shirt the sleeves should poke out the jacket half an inch on each side.
Pullovers should skim your silhouette. In other words it should comfortably glide against your frame, hugging you gently in the process. You also need to ensure your sweater is sufficiently long so it won’t rise above your midriff when raising your arms above your head.
Dress Shirts
The sleeves should cover the wrist but not go too far down the hand; cuffs should feel comfortably tight, but still be able to glide far enough up the arm for checking a wristwatch.
As with a jacket, the shoulders are incredibly important; make sure the seams meet correctly and the fabric doesn’t ‘slope’ off.
Like your sweaters, a waistcoat should skim your silhouette – by design, a waistcoat is a form-fitting garment, so there shouldn’t be any billowing. Always ensure you have plenty of room around the armholes to avoid shirts from riding up when raising your arms.
When trying a pair on (without shoes) the pants should *just about* touch the floor. When wearing your shoes, your trousers should discretely cover your socks whilst walking – if you’re flashing too much ankle, the pants are too small.
The knot should fit neatly under your collar; if it’s pushing up the shirt the knot is too swollen. Remember, the tie should hit the top of the belt buckle; it shouldn’t be tucked into your waistband or end at your stomach.

Tuesday, April 9, 2013

MatthewAperry--excellent Fit Promise

MatthewAperry's Perfect Fit Promise ensures your satisfaction with your order.If you have any problems with your order ,please contact us ,we will do our best to make it right.


If your order demands adjustments,
MatthewAperry will provide alternations credit of up to $75 according to your order


If your order is deemed unalterable by local tailor.MatthewAperry will remake it for free
Matthewaperry   Custom ClothiersATTN: REMAKE906B  Block A  Wanda Square  Renmin Road  Pingjiang District  Suzhou China


If you are not 100% satisfied with your order, you can return it for refund.

more info here:

Monday, April 8, 2013

Black Gingham light Gray Custom Shirt

Made of good quality cotton.It features white cuff and collar which contrasts well with the black gingham and creates a vibrant image.This style with black tie definitely can enhance your temperament.

 Custom Shirt

Sunday, April 7, 2013

Custom Suit for Men

As a office worker,this type suit is indispensable and everyone knows that.However if you want to look different and superior than others in this type suit,then custom made for it can do fulfill your desire.

Suit for Men

Saturday, April 6, 2013

Double Breasted Khaki Tailored Suit

men suits

Classic Style and suitable for the middle aged men.It features peak lapel and ticket pocket makes it rich and sophisticated.It can be paired with most of the shirts to create a casual or formal look.a versatile suit.


Friday, April 5, 2013

Why should I rent rather than buy?

custom suits
1. Buying cheap is a false economy – Rather than spending three digit sums on a cheap suit for a forthcoming job interview (far from a trivial expense for the unemployed), you can often invest two digit sums in a rental ensemble worth thousands; you’ll look the part without having to worry about the heavy creasing and shiny fabrics that are synonymous with cheaper suits.
2. One use only – If you’re planning on attending a wedding, but don’t want the hassle of buying a whole new outfit for the occasion, renting is the ideal ‘one time only’ option.
3. Trial and error – if you don’t have much confidence in your suit buying ability, you should definitely check out my free suit buying e-book. However, if you’re still in a quandary, rental can be a great way of sampling various suits before buying.
4. No maintenance hassles – while you’ll be charged extra for any damage caused to the suit(s) in your possession, you don’t have to think about those costly dry cleaning bills with a rental as it’s already factored into the cost.
5. The perfect fit – rental outlets have a whole range of sizes in a variety of styles. You’ll never have that ‘off the rack’ issue of being unable to find the perfect suit for your body shape.
6. Custom tailoring – Whilst you don’t normally get the ‘Saville Road’ treatment, you’ll at least get a basic level of service that you’d be missing from your typical high street store.
7. Assistance and guidance for future investments – Seeing that most rental stores also specialise in tailoring and alterations, you’ll probably find the free advice on offer is perfect for when you actually purchase a new suit of your own.
What should I be looking for?

Several things. Firstly, ensure that you’re getting quality service. Don’t go to discount, back-room fitters who care more about quick turnaround and charging for damage than getting you the perfect ensemble. Instead, pay a little more upfront for a superior fitting that’ll get you noticed. Good rental stores should be able to provide you with plenty of options.
Secondly, don’t be suckered in by various ‘special offers’ – you really don’t need to spend vast sums on extras and affectations like pocket squares; stick to the basics and add your own ‘flair’ at home.
Thirdly, observe how staff members interact with other customers. Are they taking their time with their current suitor, or rushing them through the process? You want somebody who’s attentive and perceptive, without dilly-dallying.
Finally, ask plenty of basic questions (“Which is better, navy or grey?”, “Do you think I should wear a red tie or a yellow tie with this?”, etc). If nobody’s forthcoming with any answers, it’s a safe bet that their sartorial spirit isn’t in the right place, and perhaps your rental needs aren’t going to be met in this instance.
Attending a traditional rental store

Always book an appointment if possible. While most will accommodate ‘walk-ins’ straight off the street, the best service always comes when you’ve called ahead in advance. This way they can reserve a whole hour or more to find the perfect outfit, rather than a scant ten minutes before the next scheduled appointment arrives.
Always come wearing the same (or similar) dress shirt and/or tie you plan on wearing with the suit. Don’t forget the dress socks too, and please wear clean underwear for … ahem… obvious reasons.
Good rental stores will happily offer you a tie during the fitting if you’ve not got one to hand, although never assume the accoutrements will be supplied for you, or are even included in the final rental price of the suit/tuxedo.
Finally, if you are stuck in a jam but have access to your measurements, you may want to try one of several online services that offer rental. A quick google search should be more than adequate to find dozens of rental retailers that will deliver and pickup in your area.

Tuesday, April 2, 2013

White Studded Tuxedo Shirt

dress shirt
$ USD 69.00
Fabric: 100%cotton
Occasion: Wedding
White Studded Tuxedo Shirt,a gorgeous style and particular for the most wondeful day in your life,As a wedding shirt,it is a common and classic style,furthermore it is tailor made

Monday, April 1, 2013

White Summer Casual Shirt

dress shirt

Designed for the summer wearing.Good quality cotton make the shirt look rich.Match it with a light color pant is a good option.